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Dhoti, kurti and khadi
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Be Indian, wear Indian. That's the message of Kolkata designers Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Kiran Uttam Ghosh. Check out their designs at the upcoming Lakme India Fashion Week, says ANUJ KUMAR... .
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Sabyasachi Mukherjee's creations.
ONE OF the finds of last year's Lakme India Fashion Week, Kolkata-based Sabyasachi Mukherjee belongs to the fresh yield of the fashion crop, who dare to look beyond the opulence of bridal wear and see no point in selling west to the West. This time Sabyasachi label is showcasing Kora collection, which according to the designer has an anti-war appeal. "Fashion is not an isolated identity, therefore, sometimes rules are broken to adjust to the global scenario. But the collection is not meant for any anti-war propaganda as such. It is just a symbol of triumph of human spirit."
The young designer, who makes her models walk in grand-ma spectacles says, "This way models and hence the dresses look more accessible and real. That's why I sometimes make their hair grey as well."
Talking about the intricacies of his work, Sabyasachi explains, "Kora stands for raw. It's an all-white collection with an old Victorian feel. We have used simple Indian fabrics like cotton, khadi, voiles and even chanderis to do away with the opulence and give a cleaner and soulful look. The emphasis is not on embroidery and embellishments but on cuts and texture." He is of the firm view that we can't better the West because of their technological superiority. Also, we can't impress them with the traditional oriental work, as it is too exotic for them. "We have to strike a fine balance between the two."
Kiran Uttam Ghosh's creations.
Sabyasachi is all for tying up with corporate houses to market fashion labels but the new kid behind the ramp desires that seniors should lead the way.
Another designer from the City of Joy - Kiran Uttam Ghosh is busy giving an audacious look to her collection. "The look is very bold, with deeper necklines, higher slits, daring colours and body hugging clothes that never go out of fashion but with ethnic weave," says Kiran. Short fitted kurtis with designer lungis are going to constitute her style statement this year. "On the international scene, I think lungis or Indian sarongs, which are gender neutral are going to woo the buyers as kurtis have done this year." Kiran is using cotton, silk, organza and chiffon for her outfits. She claims that her designs are both affordable and wearable - the twin words that have finally made their way into Indian designers workshops.
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