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Chic in Chikankari
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Chikankari or shadow work is high on fashion, these days. So be chic in chikankari
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THROUGH THE corridors of time, scanning centuries, India has been home to various embroidery types.
The stitchery practised along the length and breadth of the Indian sub-continent stands as a testimony to this fact. Defined and polished in the court of Avadh (Lucknow), Chikankari reflects pure white moonlight magic resplendent in all its beauty.
Famous as `Shadow work', Chikankari is a term of uncertain origin. It primarily refers to an embroidery type done originally in white cotton thread on a white cotton ground. While the word chikan may be Persian in origin, Nurjehan, wife of Mughal emperor Jehangir is said to have introduced this art.
With its etymology remaining a mystery, chikan art has hit the fashion calendar like never before. This classic stitchery has gained a new momentum marked by the spirit of modernity. Effortlessly running anywhere and everywhere, this form of `white embroidery' is every designer's choice this season.
A season dedicated to `flora,' this summer sees Chikankari take a giant leap on the fashion charts. Motifs like flowers, creepers, peacocks and parrots are being employed with a sense of modernity. Recently experiencing a major comeback, the paisley motif is seen on top of the line this season.
This floral narration takes shape with traditional stitches like - Murri (a knotted stitch similar to the French knot), Phanda (resembling a millet) and Taipachi (running or darning stitch) to fill areas.
A breath of freshness reaches your wardrobe as this stitchery achieves a new sensitivity to colour. Originally, white on white, chikan art is seen in a new `colourama' this season.
As the magic dies on a dark base, chikan art sees the limitation of being workable with powder tones - an ideal summer setting. Soft tones of lilac, pink, yellow, pista, aqua and camel give a new meaning to Chikankari. Don't forget that yellow, white and green are the colours of the season.
Drifting away from the original pristine setting, tone-on-tone embroidery, features this season. Chikankari takes a flight of fantasy with bead, sequin and mokaish (white flat silver strip embroidery) incorporations, giving you just what you need after 7 pm.
Reflections of modernisation meander into a new fabric range. Apart from voile, mulmul and organdie grounds, the style gallery features chiffon, viscose georgette, polyester georgette, cotton crepe and net.
The silhouette spectrum also widens like never before. Kurtas as co-ordinates, short kurtis with embroidered churidars or narrow pants, saris and cholis - all sail strong. Peasant blouses, formal basic shirts, flared full-circle skirts in chikan art are steaming this season.
Chikan art is revitalised, echoing a look that is traditional yet modern. With its origin lost in mists of antiquity, let this modern exuberance reach your wardrobe this summer.
Text & Illustrations
ANUPREET BHALLA
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Metro Plus
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